{"id":1934,"date":"2011-09-29T08:59:51","date_gmt":"2011-09-29T06:59:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=1934"},"modified":"2020-05-12T10:31:25","modified_gmt":"2020-05-12T08:31:25","slug":"topo-face-nord-cervin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=1934","title":{"rendered":"voie Schmid, face nord du Cervin"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>TD\u00a0 V\/ 4+\/ M5 1100m. Une combinaison Schmid sortie Bonatti. Il est vrai que \u00e7a passe partout mais plus ou moins facilement &#8230; Jamais tr\u00e8s technique mais plut\u00f4t compliqu\u00e9 quant au meilleur passage, aux protections et relais.<\/p>\n<p>Passer la barre rocheuse qui d\u00e9fend l&rsquo;acc\u00e8s au glacier par une corde fixe et une travers\u00e9e \u00e0 droite. Traverser le glacier vers la droite; ne pas attaquer les pentes trop t\u00f4t ! (bien paumatoire de nuit, bonne lampe ou rep\u00e9rage conseill\u00e9 !). On gagne la rampe par une longueur en mixte \u00e0 droite M4. La remonter sur 3 ou 2 grandes longueurs. Quand elle se redresse, traverser \u00e0 droite vers un \u00e9peron neigeux puis encore \u00e0 D pour gagner une belle goulotte mixte M5 (on peut continuer dans la rampe et traverser \u00e0 droite dans du rocher p\u00e9teux). Une grande longueur en glace fine pour rejoindre la belle coul\u00e9e de glace 4\/4+ ; relais \u00e0 droite. Traverser horizontalement sur 30m pour gagner le fil d&rsquo;un \u00e9peron. Goulotte 70\u00b0 puis mixte pour rejoindre les pentes terminales pas loin de la Zmuttgrat.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 33%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-1934 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1918'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020173-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1919'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020105-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1920'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020110-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1921'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020114-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1922'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020120-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1923'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020124-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1924'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020140-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1925'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020137-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1926'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020160-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1927'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020159-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1928'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020165-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?attachment_id=1929'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/P1020167-110x110.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>TD\u00a0 V\/ 4+\/ M5 1100m. Une combinaison Schmid sortie Bonatti. Il est vrai que \u00e7a passe partout mais plus ou moins facilement &#8230; Jamais tr\u00e8s technique mais plut\u00f4t compliqu\u00e9 quant au meilleur passage, aux protections et relais. Passer la barre &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=1934\">Continuer la lecture <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22,16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1934","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-goulotte","category-td"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1934","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1934"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1934\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5174,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1934\/revisions\/5174"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1934"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1934"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1934"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}