{"id":3085,"date":"2014-10-01T13:40:11","date_gmt":"2014-10-01T11:40:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=3085"},"modified":"2014-10-12T11:05:31","modified_gmt":"2014-10-12T09:05:31","slug":"septembre-2014-les-jojos-en-folies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=3085","title":{"rendered":"Septembre 2014 : les Jojos en folies"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Vendredi 12 septembre, le PGHM survole le bassin de Leschaux \u00e0 la demande de la gardienne du refuge. Pr\u00e8s de 100 personnes s\u2019appr\u00eatent \u00e0 gravir la face nord ! Dont 30 pour la seule Colton-MacIntyre !!! De m\u00e9moire de ses 29 ann\u00e9es de gardiennage au Couvercle, MT n&rsquo;avait jamais vu ce d\u00e9fil\u00e9 de frontales du 13, et ce quasi chaque nuit de beau temps.<\/p>\n<p>C&rsquo;est vrai que les conditions sont exceptionnelles. Suite \u00e0 cet \u00e9t\u00e9 particuli\u00e8rement froid et perturb\u00e9. Et aussi gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la mousson du 26 ao\u00fbt : pluie torrentielle jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 4000m. La neige d\u00e9j\u00e0 pr\u00e9sente a \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Ben n\u00e9viss\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb : placage d\u00e9ment partout !!! Tr\u00e8s bonnes conditions donc, qui rappellent l&rsquo;automne 1977, 2008 &#8230; Ajoutez \u00e0 cela un topo tout frais (et sortie pile-poil au bon moment ;)) et des photos de la face qui circulent sur la page <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/leschaux.refuge?fref=ts\">FB<\/a> du refuge tous les 3 jours depuis d\u00e9but juillet, et c&rsquo;est le buzz ! Ce que l&rsquo;on peut d\u00e9j\u00e0 retenir :<\/p>\n<ul style=\"list-style-type: disc;\">\n<li>fr\u00e9quentation record en face nord et notamment dans la Colton-MacIntyre, la Combi Slov\u00e8ne-Croz, la Combi Polonaise (sans gros incident \u00e0 d\u00e9plorer malgr\u00e9 le danger \u00e9vident \u00e0 grimper les uns derri\u00e8re les autres, la difficult\u00e9 \u00e0 se prot\u00e9ger avec ses conditions de placage, le s\u00e9racs Whymper &#8230;)<\/li>\n<li>mise en avant de toutes les grandes lignes logiques en placage (Petite Mac-Intyre, Desmaison, CMI, Japonais, Bonatti-Vaucher et No-Bonatt, CSC et CP, R\u00eave). Au d\u00e9triment par exemple de No Siesta, voie de r\u00e9f\u00e9rence de ces 10 derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es !<\/li>\n<li>Parcours sans bivouac dans la face pour une majorit\u00e9 des cord\u00e9es (m\u00eame pour la longue Desmaison !)<\/li>\n<li>des solos avec des temps uelisteck, principalement dans la CMI et CP. A noter la jolie <a href=\"http:\/\/www.montagnes-magazine.com\/actus-video-grandes-jo-solo-3h35-julien-irilli\">journ\u00e9e<\/a> de JI : Cham\/Cham 8h30\/16h via Aiguille du Midi, bas de Leschaux, CMI, pointe Walker en liaison XXlite. Et comment ne pas comparer un discret pyr\u00e9n\u00e9ens qui finit son tour dominical au Grand Pilier d&rsquo;Angle (apr\u00e8s Montenvers-Combinaison Polonaise-trav Jorasses-Rochefort, apr\u00e8s-midi et nuit au refuge Torino) d&rsquo;un catalan nettement plus m\u00e9diatique qui, le m\u00eame jour, fait son tour du Tour en Go Pro &#8230;<\/li>\n<li>Au final peut-\u00eatre une ascension \u00e0 retenir particuli\u00e8rement : la <a href=\"http:\/\/www.planetmountain.com\/News\/shownews1.lasso?l=1&amp;keyid=42172\">Directe de l&rsquo;amiti\u00e9<\/a> en 2 jours par ME et CP !<br \/>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A9664.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3089 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A9664-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"15\/09 : belle \u00e9quipe de Millet-wads, Canzio. Photo @Griffith\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A0793.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3087 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A0793-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"dans le premier placage de la version mixte de l'Eperon Marguerite. Passage que je guettais depuis 2008 ! Photo @Griffith\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170356.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3090 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170356-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"Korra dans le di\u00e8dre central\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A2202.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3088 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/5S9A2202-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"goulotte de sortie.  Photo @Griffith\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170412.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3091\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170412-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"P1170412\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11704241.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3093\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11704241-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"P11704241\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170674.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3096 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170674-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"26\/09 : 35 personnes au refuge d'hiver ; on bivouac au d\u00e9part du glacier\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170696.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3097\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170696-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"P1170696\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11707221.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3094\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11707221-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"P11707221\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170738.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3095 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170738-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"variante \u00e0 droite de la goulotte de droite de R\u00eave Eph\u00e9m\u00e8re d'alpiniste\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170806.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-3092 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1170806-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"Eperon de sortie de la face NW\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11708261.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[3085]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3086\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P11708261-110x110.jpg\" alt=\"P11708261\" width=\"110\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Vendredi 12 septembre, le PGHM survole le bassin de Leschaux \u00e0 la demande de la gardienne du refuge. Pr\u00e8s de 100 personnes s\u2019appr\u00eatent \u00e0 gravir la face nord ! Dont 30 pour la seule Colton-MacIntyre !!! De m\u00e9moire de ses &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/?p=3085\">Continuer la lecture <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3085","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-goulotte"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3085","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3085"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3085\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3100,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3085\/revisions\/3100"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3085"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3085"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alpiguide.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3085"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}